Welcome to Our Materials & Equipment Page!

You might be surprised at how inexpensive basic soap making equipment is. You may already have everything you need but the soap molds. Even those can be pretty inexpensive. You can also get creative and use small Rubbermaid containers to make mini soap loaves. If you have candy making molds those can also be used to make small hand soaps!

Equipment:

• Glass Measuring Cups or a Double Boiler (for melting soap bases).
  
  
• Glass or Stainless Steel Mixing Bowls (for making bath salts and potpourri). Note: Avoid using plastic as colorants may stain the bowls.
  
  
• Cutting Board.
  
  
• Sharp, heavy duty Knife (for cutting the glycerin into small cubes).
  
  
• Spoons for Mixing.
  
  
• Measuring Spoons.
  
  
• Scale (if you are not using pre-measured blocks of glycerin).
  
  
• mortar and pestal, spice mill, or coffee grinder (for crushing or grinding dry additives).
  
  
• Color Wheel (optional) for mixing your own colors while soap making.
  
  
• Soap Molds

Basic Ingredients:

1. Melt & Pour Soap Base: Click on the link to read about melt and pour soap bases on the home page.
   
   
2. Essential Oils: Click on the link or scroll down to the next section to read more about using essential oils in soap making and other bath/body products.
   
   
3. Colorants (optional): Click on the link or scroll down to read more about colorants used in soap making and other bath and body products.
   
   
4. Additives/Botanicals (optional): Click on the link or scroll down to read more about additives and botanicals.

Essential Oils Used in Soap Making:

As mentioned previously, not all essential oils are appropriate for use in soap making or other bath/body products. In addition, essential oils are highly concentrated and most need to be diluted by blending into soaps, lotions, carrier oils, cosmetics, etc. The general safety data I've gathered over the years varies but the general range is 0.5% - 1% concentration of essential oils is considered safe.

I use information from the book Essential Oils (Neal's Yard Remedies) by Susan Curtis as a general guideline because it contains safety data for the individual oils instead of a general number for all essential oils. Some oils should be used in lesser concentrations and with some a bit more is still considered safe. Remember that everyone's skin is different so the numbers given don't necessarily mean safe for everyone. I would strongly advise erring on the side of caution and using less than the maximum amount considered safe especially if you have sensitive skin.

As with any type of fragrance oil using too much can cause severe skin irritation. People with sensitive skin or allergies should also use caution when trying a new essential oil. I perform a skin test by diluting a safe level of the oil in question in olive oil and applying a small amount to the area of skin under my elbow then rinsing away with pure water. If redness occurs I know I'm sensitive to it and do not use it in my skin care products.

General Safety Tips for Working with Essential Oils:

• Always keep essential oils out of the reach of small children.
  
  
• Always do your homework before trying a new essential oil in a skin care product. Remember, not all essential oils are safe for use in soap and other bath and body products.
  
  
• Skin Test: Before using a new oil in a skin care product check for sensitivity by diluting a safe amount of the oil with a carrier oil such as olive oil or almond oil and applying a small amount to the area of skin under the elbow, and rinse away with pure water. If redness occurs do not use in skin care products.
  
  
• As with other additives and ingredients, never use an essential oil if you have a known allergy or sensitivity to the plant the oil is extracted from.
  
  
• As with fragrance oils, essential oils are highly concentrated and may cause irritation if they come in direct contact with the skin and/or mucus membranes. Wearing vinyl or latex gloves when handling essential oils, making sure caps are properly secured after use, and immediately cleaning up spills can prevent unpleasant and painful experiences.
  
  
• Some people may be sensitive to prolonged exposure to the highly concentrated scent of some oils. Working in a well ventilated area and never placing an open bottle right under your nose to smell the oil can prevent this from happening.
  
  
• Some essential oils can strip varnish and paint so be sure to choose your work space wisely.

Shopping for Essential Oils:

Like most things quality, price and availability vary. Some common essential oils like lavender, orange, lemon, and peppermint oils can be found at many health food stores and natural markets. For others you may need to order online. You may also find that one brand is a much better quality than another. This can be the result of a number of factors like how the oil was processed, exposure to extreme heat, improper storage, etc. I've had extremely good results with the Now Foods brand of essential oils but you may find that you like another brand better. For online shopping, Google Product Search can be a great tool. You can compare prices by brand, price, etc. If there is a particular brand of essential oil that you like you can click on the option to show only the results of that brand of oil!

The Oils & Plants They are Produced From:

Below is a list of 20 essential oils that are commonly used in soap making and other bath & body products. The safety data is provided by the book Essential Oils (Neal's Yard Remedies) by Susan Curtis. I have tried all of the oils below without any issues but remember everyone is different. Before trying a new essential oil in your skin care products always dilute a safe amount of the essential oil with a carrier oil and perform a skin test to check for sensitivity.

1. Lavender: Lavender has long been used in tonics, herbal teas, in soap making, perfumes, and other bath and body products. Lavender is one of the few essential oils that many people can safely apply directly to the skin without diluting it. The oil is fairly inexpensive and is steam distilled from the fresh flowering tops of the plant.
   
   Tip: Lavender is very pungent so be careful not to use too much or the scent will be overpowering. Also be careful not to use too much when blending with other essential oils or the scent will mask the others and all you will smell is lavender.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Lavender mixes well with Chamomile, bergamot, orange, and/or lemon. Try using half as much lavender as citrus in blends. For example, 10 drops of lemon and 5 drops of lavender.
   
   
2. Bergamot: Bergamot is in the same family as oranges, lemons, and lime. Since production of the essential oil began in the early 18^th century, bergamot oil has been used in soaps, lotions, perfumes, creams, and sweets. Bergamot is what gives earl grey tea it's unique flavor and scent. Bergamot is moderately inexpensive. The oil is produced by rasping the peel, collecting everything that is expressed, clarifying, and filtering it. Safety Data: Phototoxic. Use bergaptene free bergamot or do not use in concentrations of more than 0.4% if applying to the skin within 12 hours of exposure to sunlight or a tanning bed.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Bergamot blends well with floral, other citrus or spice oils.
   
   
3. Lemon: Lemon oil is inexpensive and used in flavorings, fragrances, massage oils, and soaps. The oil is machine expressed from the ripe peel of the lemon. Safety Data: Sensitization Possible. Phototoxic - do not use in concentrations of more than 2% within 12 hours of exposure to sunlight or a tanning bed.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Lemon tends to blend well with floral, other citrus, or peppermint oil.
   
   
4. Orange: Orange oil is used in flavorings, perfume, soaps, and body oils. Orange oil is inexpensive and is produced by machine expressing the ripe peel. Safety Data: Non-Phototoxic. Sensitization Rare.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Orange blends well with spice oils, lavender, other citrus oils, frankincense, and myrrh.
   
   
5. Lime: Lime oil is fairly inexpensive and shares many of the same uses as lemon oil. Lime oil is machine expressed from the ripe peel of the lime. Safety Data: Extremely Phototoxic - do not use in concentrations of more than 0.5% within 12 hours of exposure to sunlight or a tanning bed.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Lime blends well with grapefruit and lemon oil.
   
   
6. Grapefruit: Grapefruit oil is inexpensive and used in bath & body products and perfumes. The oil is machine expressed from the ripe peel of the fruit. Safety Data: Somewhat phototoxic. Do not use in concentrations of more than 3% within 12 hours of exposure to sunlight or a tanning bed.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Grapefruit blends well with other citrus oils.
   
   
7. Peppermint: Peppermint has long been used in flavorings, herbal tea, tonics, creams, and bath & body products. When added to massage oils and creams, peppermint has a mild warming effect on the skin. Peppermint oil is fairly inexpensive and is made by steam distilling the flowering herb. Safety Data: Do not use in cases of cardiac fibrillation. Do not use in concentrations of more than 3%.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Peppermint blends well with spearmint, lavender, eucalyptus, and lemon oil. Be careful not to use to much or it will overpower other scents.
   
   
8. Spearmint: Spearmint shares many of the same properties as peppermint but it is milder and smells a bit sweeter. Safety Data: Do not use in cases of cardiac fibrillation. Do not use in concentrations of more than 3%.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Spearmint blends well with peppermint and eucalyptus oil.
   
   
9. Eucalyptus: Eucalyptus is used in soap, bath and massage oils, medical creams and ointments, steam inhalation, and lip balms. Eucalyptus oil is fairly inexpensive. It is produced by steam distillation of the leaves and twigs of the Eucalyptus or Blue Gum Tree. The tree is native to Australia but is now cultivated in California, Spain, India, and South Africa. Safety Data: Non-toxic externally.
   
   Suggested Oil Blends: Eucalyptus blends well with peppermint, spearmint, lemon, and tea tree oil.
   
   
10. Tea Tree: Tea Tree oil (also known as Ti Tree) is used mainly for it's germicidal properties. During World War II, it was included in first aid kits to treat infections. It is fairly inexpensive and the oil is steam distilled from the leaves and twigs of the tree which is native to Australia. Safety Data: Non-toxic externally, sensitization rare.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Tea tree oil blends well with eucalyptus, peppermint, clove, and cinnamon oil.
    
    
11. Geranium: Geranium is a fairly inexpensive oil that is used in perfumes, soaps, bath & body oils, and lotions. Geranium oil is steam distilled from glands located in the leaves and stems of the plant. Harvesting occurs within a few days of flowering when the leaves produce a somewhat rosy scent. Safety Data: Sensitization rare.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Geranium oil blends well with orange, lavender, patchouli, bergamot and lemon oil.
    
    
12. Ylang-Ylang: Ylang-ylang is produced from the flowers of a tree native to tropical Asia. Ylang-ylang is used in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and bath & body oils. The oil is steam distilled from the flowers. There are 4 grades of distillates so the price of the oil varies depending on the grade of ylang-ylang oil. The most expensive is known as ylang extra. The price and scent quality decreases in the following order: grades I, II, and III.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Ylang-ylang oil blends well with bergamot, jasmine, lemon and sandalwood oil.
    
    
13. Juniper: Juniper oil is produced from the berries of an evergreen shrub. Juniper berries are used in herbal medicine, to flavor gin, in cooking, to scent perfumes, soaps and other bath & body products. The oil is fairly inexpensive and is steam distilled from the berries or from the berries, twigs and needles of the shrub. Safety Data: Non-irritant in dilution.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Juniper oil blends well with jasmine, lavender, and citrus oils.
    
    
14. ∗Chamomile: Chamomile is a flowering herb that resembles the daisy. It is used in herbal teas, soaps, lotions, perfumes, oils, and other bath & body products. The dark blue oil is produced by steam distilling the flowers of the plant.
    
    Tip: Essential oil of chamomile is expensive and the dark color may discolor your soap and other bath & body products. If you can find a high quality chamomile fragrance oil that does not cause irritation you can save some money by substituting it for the essential oil in your recipes.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Chamomile oil blends well with lavender, orange, lemon, and rose oil.
    
    
15. ∗Jasmine: Jasmine oil is used in soap, perfumes, bath & body oils, and lotions. Jasmine oil is produced by solvent extraction or less common today, by enfleurage. The high cost of the oil is due to the large volume of flowers required to produce it.
    
    Tip: Since essential oil of jasmine is expensive and the dark brown color may discolor your soap and other bath & body products, if you can find a high quality jasmine fragrance oil that does not cause irritation you can save money by substituting it for the essential oil in your recipes.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Jasmine oil blends well with juniper, ylang-ylang, bergamot, orange, rose, and sandalwood oil.
    
    
16. ∗Sandalwood: Sandalwood oil is produced from Sandalwood trees which are native to India. Sandalwood oil is used in perfume, soaps, lotions, and other bath & body products. The wood has been used in carvings for thousands of years. In powdered form it is used as incense. The oil is steam distilled from the heartwood of the tree. There are 4 grades of sandalwood oil. The highest grade (and most expensive) is known as Mysore Sandalwood Oil. The majority of sandalwood is known as Agmarked Sandalwood Oil (which is also expensive).
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Sandalwood oil blends well with rose, bergamot, jasmine, ylang-ylang and cedarwood oil.
    
    Tip: Essential oil of sandalwood is expensive. To save money you can buy the essential oil that has been blended with a carrier oil like grape seed oil or if you can find a high quality fragrance oil that does not cause irritation, substitute that for the essential oil in your recipes.
    
    
17. Rosewood: Rosewood oil is produced from the rosewood tree which is native to the Amazon Basin. Rosewood oil is fairly inexpensive and smells somewhat like lavender. Rosewood oil is used in perfumes, soaps, lotions, and other bath & body products.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Rosewood oil combines well with ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon, frankincense, and sandalwood oil.
    
    
18. Cinnamon: There are two types of cinnamon oil, cinnamon bark oil and cinnamon leaf oil. Cinnamon leaf oil is steam distilled from the leaves of the tree. It smells much like cinnamon just a bit milder and it is less likely to cause irritation. Good cinnamon leaf oil should be a yellowish-orange color. Cinnamon bark oil is distilled from the bark. It is a dark amber resinous oil. Safety Data: Cinnamon bark oil can be extremely irritating and may not be suitable for people with sensitive skin. Do not use either type of oil in concentrations of more than 0.5%. Always dilute and perform a patch test on a small area of skin before using either type of cinnamon oil.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Cinnamon oil blends well with citrus oils, other spice oils, frankincense, myrrh, and sandalwood.
    
    
19. ∗Frankincense: Frankincense oil is produced from trees in the genus Boswellia which are native to Africa. Frankincense has been used for thousands of years as incense and in skin care preparations. The oil is steam distilled from the resin of the tree.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Frankincense blends well with citrus oils, spice oils, myrrh, cedarwood, and sandalwood.
    
    Tip: Essential oil of frankincense is expensive. To save money you can buy the essential oil that has been blended with a carrier oil like grape seed oil. This can work very well since frankincense oil is pungent. Another option is to find a high quality fragrance oil that does not cause irritation and substitute that for the essential oil in your recipes.
    
    
20. ∗Myrrh: Myrrh is produced from trees native to East Africa. Myrrh has been used for thousands of years as incense and in skin preparations. The amber-dark red oil is steam distilled from the resin of the tree. Safety Data: Non-toxic externally.
    
    Suggested Oil Blends: Myrrh oil blends well with spice oils, frankincense, sandalwood, lemon, and cedarwood.
    
    Tip: Essential oil of Myrrh is expensive and the dark color can discolor your soaps and other bath & body products. To save money you can buy the essential oil that has been blended with a carrier oil like grape seed oil. This can work very well since myrrh oil is pungent. Another option is to find a high quality fragrance oil that does not cause irritation and substitute that for the essential oil in your recipes.
    
    

∗ Denotes an expensive oil.

Colorants:

When I first started making soap I loved experimenting with colorants but recently I decided I liked a more natural look for my soaps and other bath and body products so I don't work with colorants very often anymore. For example, I make a lot of goat's milk or olive oil glycerin base soaps with botanicals or spice powders mixed in for a dash of color.

There are a lot of color choices that work very well for melt & pour soap making as well as other bath/body products. It's just a matter of personal preference and what you think works best for you. There are solid, powder, and liquid colorants made specifically for soap making. Amounts to be used per pound vary so always check the label for suggested amounts before use.

Food coloring should NOT be used in soap making. They tend to fade over time and could stain your skin, hair, and tub. Some articles and books that I have read mention that it is okay to use them in bath salts and bubble baths but I would strongly advise against this for the reasons mentioned above. Instead, use cosmetic grade colorants or natural pigments listed safe for use in soap making and cosmetics to color soaps and other bath/body products.

Natural Additives & Botanicals:

Additives and botanicals aren't just for looks. They can also add mild exfoliating properties, help add more lather, add moisturizing and scent enhancing properties to your soaps. However, there are some things to keep in mind when choosing additives.

Considerations:

• Never assume that just because something is natural that it is safe.
  
  
• Never add anything that you have a known sensitivity or allergy to.
  
  
• Never add fresh fruits, florals, or vegetables to melt and pour soap bases.
  
  
• Adding too much can cause your soap to become scratchy and irritating or too soft
  
  
• Avoid using things like crushed cinnamon sticks or potpourri as they could cause injury
  
  
• When in doubt if something you are working with will cause a reaction, make a small quantity of soap and test it by using a very small amount of the soap and water on tender area of skin inside your elbow. If you have redness or a rash, it means that you have a sensitivity to the ingredient in question.

Additives with Moisturizing Qualities:

Coconut Oil - Adds additional moisture and lather to soap. It is readily available at Indian Markets, natural food stores, or online from soap making suppliers. Coconut oil is a solid at room temperature and white in appearance. Coconut oil should be melted separately before adding it to your melted glycerin base. Do not use more than 2 Tablespoons per pound (16 oz) of base as it could make your soap turn out poorly.

Coconut oil can be melted in the microwave as long as it is watched carefully so as not to overheat. It will turn from white to clear in appearance as it melts. I usually remove it when there is still a small amount of solid material left in the container and stir until it is clear.

CAUTION: Coconut oil may produce a reaction in people allergic to nuts.

Olive Oil - Adds additional moisture & lather and is considered to be good for sensitive skin. It can also be used as a base or blended with other base oils for bath/body/massage oils. Olive oil can be found at your local supermarket, international markets, natural markets, online grocers or soap making suppliers. For best results, only high quality, extra virgin olive oils should be used for soap making or in other bath and body products. To prevent your soap from becoming too soft, do not use more than 4 teaspoons per pound (16 oz) of soap base. For best results slightly warm the olive oil in a hot water bath, add to melted soap base, and stir until blended.

Avocado Oil - Adds additional moisture & lather to soap and is considered to be good for sensitive skin. It also contains high amounts of Vitamin A, E, and D. It can also be used as a base or blended with other oils for bath/body & massage oils. Avocado oil can be purchased from supermarkets, natural food markets, or soap suppliers. To obtain the maxium benefits use only cold pressed avocado oil for soap making and other bath and body products. High quality cold pressed avacado oil resembles extra vigin olive oil in appearance. To prevent your soap from becoming too soft, do not use more than 4 teaspoons per pound (16 oz) of soap base. For best results slightly warm the avocado oil in a hot water bath, add to melted soap base, and stir until blended.

Shea Butter - Adds additional moisture to soap and is also found in suntan lotions, massage creams, and lotions. Shea Butter comes from the nut kernel of the Shea Tree. It can be found online from soap making suppliers. To prevent your soap from turning out poorly, do not use more than 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) per pound (16 oz) of soap base. For best results, melt the shea butter separately in a hot water bath or a double broiler, add to melted soap base, and stir until blended.

CAUTION: Shea Butter may cause a reaction in people who are allergic to nuts.

Cocoa Butter - Is used to add additional moisture and when added to soap and makes it somewhat creamy and hard. Cocoa butter is a fat that comes from the seeds of the cocoa tree and is separated during the process of making cocoa. Like coconut oil, it is a solid at room temperature and needs to be carefully melted separately before adding to your melted soap base. Cocoa butter is also used in candy making so it should be available from candy supply stores or online soap making suppliers. To prevent your soap from turning out poorly, Do not use more than 4 teaspoons of cocoa butter per pound (16 oz) of soap base. For best results melt cocoa butter separately in a hot water bath or double broiler, add to your melted soap base, and stir until blended.

CAUTION: Cocoa Butter may produce a reaction in people who are allergic to chocolate.

Liquid Glycerin - Adds additonal lather and moisture to soap. It can also be dilluted with water (1 part glycerin and 2 - 3 parts water) and used as a skin moisturizer. It is also used in making bath salts, creams, and lotions. Liquid glycerin is clear and can be purchased from a pharmacy or soap suppliers. Use only pure glycerin for soap making. For best results, do not use more than 2 teaspoons of liquid glycerin per pound (16 oz) of soap base. Add liquid glycerin to your melted soap base and stir until blended.

Honey - Adds additional moisture to soap. Pure honey can also be used as a facial mask and is said to improve skin conditions such as acne and help to restore the ph balance of skin. To prevent your soap from becoming too soft, do not use more than 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) per pound (16 oz) of soap base. For best results slightly warm honey in a hot water bath, add to melted soap base and stir until blended.

CAUTION: Do not use honey in soap and other bath/body products that will be used on infants. Do not use honey if you have an allergy or sensitivity to it.

Dry Additives:

There are many dry additives that can be added to soaps and other bath & body products for appearance, as a scent enhancer, or as an exfoliant. Dry materials should be slightly crushed or powdered If not, they have a tendency not to suspend evenly and will float to the top. They should also be added after the base has had a chance to cool slightly, just before adding color and scent. Otherwise, even though prepared properly most will float to the top of the mold. Don't worry if you add them to soon just stir occasionally and wait for the soap to cool a bit more before pouring. There are also melt & pour bases available that are specially formulated for suspending dry additives in soap.

To avoid skin irritation, do not use more than a total of 2 teaspoons of dry addititves per pound (16 oz) of soap base.

I have listed a few of the more common ones below to help you get started. You may be surprised to find that you already have a few of these in the kitchen cupboard.

Crushed or Powdered Oatmeal (Regular, Not Quick Oats) - This is one of my favorite additives. They are inexpensive, add more lather to your soap, and are generally safe to use for people with sensitive skin. They should be slightly crushed before adding as this will help to suspend them more evenly in the soap base. If you do not care for the appearance of crushed oats in your soap you can grind them to a powder before adding as an alternative.

Wheat Germ - An inexpensive, readily available, and extremely gentle exfoliant. It adds a light beige speckle to your soap. I like the effect of mixing it with cinnamon powder and oats and no colorants.

Cornmeal - A mild exfoliant and adds a straw-yellow speckle to your soap. It's inexpensive and easy to obtain.

Powdered Milk, Buttermilk, & Goats Milk - Powdered milks are a natural cleanser and can be used in soaps and bath salts. To avoid clumping, use only instant powdered milks for soap making. Add powdered milk to melted soap base and stir. You can also stir the powder with oil or honey, add to melted soap base, and stir until blended. To prevent your soap from becoming too soft, do not use more than 2 teaspoons per pound (16 oz) of soap base.

Bee Pollen - Is a colorful additive that will dissolve in the bath. It adds a slight floral scent to soap. It can be purchased from health food stores and soap suppliers. To prevent your soap from becoming too soft, do not use more than 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) per pound (16 oz) of soap base.

CAUTION: Do not use bee pollen in soap and other bath products that will be used on infants. Do not use bee pollen if you are allergic to pollen.

Sea Salt (Fine & Coarse) - is an inexpensive exfolliant and can be purchased from supermarkets, health food stores, and soap suppliers.

Do not use sea salt in soap and other bath/body products if you have dry skin.

Kelp Powder - Is said to help restore and smooth skin. Kelp powder is sold as an iodine supplement and capsules can be purchased from heath food stores and pharmacies. Remove powder from the capsules and stir into your melted soap base. Loose powder can be purchased from soap making suppliers and health food stores. Be careful not to use too much or your soap will smell very fishy.

Dry Additives that Can also be Used as Natural Colorants:

Here are a few additives that in addition to other properties can be used separately as natural colorants. To achieve the added color without the additive, place the material in a fine mesh bag or double-folded cheese cloth and tie a tight knot. Add it to the base after melting but before adding scent. Allow it to steep until you achieve the desired color and remove with a pair of tongs. Add scent and pour into molds. For tea you can steep tea bags as a time saver. To intensify the effect you can also add a small amount of the finely powdered material to the melted soap base after removing the bag (but before adding scent) and stir.

Tips & Troubleshooting:

• If the color is too light reheat and add more material to steep.
• If it is too dark melt more soap base and add to your base or add a whitening agent.
• You can also add small amounts of colorant(s) to intensify or lessen the effect.
• It may be the quality of the material you are using - try a different brand.
• It may not be possible to achieve the desired color with this material.

Coffee - It may sound a bit odd but it is easy to obtain, fairly inexpensive and adds lather a mild exfoliant quality to soap. It also adds dark brown speckles and changes the color of the base to a medium brown color.

Black Tea - An inexpensive, mild exfoliant. It also adds a dark beige color as well as a dark brown speckle to soap. Green Tea is not as dark and will produce a milder effect but if you are counting on an expensive tea that is green in color holding it's color over time, don't they fade quite rapidly. I strongly recommend using less expensive teas for soap making.

Cinnamon Powder - In addition to acting as a mild astringent and a mild exfoliant, cinnamon powder adds a slight spicy scent and a mild brownish color to soap. Never use crushed cinnamon sticks in soap as they are jagged and can cause injury and/or irritation.

Cocoa Powder - A mild inexpensive exfoliant. Cocoa Powder adds a brown speckle and light-medium brown color to soap. Cocoa powder can cause a reaction in people who are allergic to chocolate.

Crushed or Powdered Lavender - This is one of my personal favorites. Crushed lavender adds lather and a mild lavender color to white soap bases. The buds are also very pungent so when used with essential oil of lavender you can save money by using less oil! It is fairly inexpensive but generally only available in craft stores, some natural food markets, or soap suppliers.

Crushed or Powdered Chamomile - Said to be mild and soothing it adds a slight yellow speckle to soap. Thankfully the centers are much less expensive than the essential oil and available through most craft supply stores, some natural food markets, and soap suppliers. Sometimes they come with the petals attached I generally remove those before crushing or powdering. If you are trying this one for the first time a less expensive alternative is to buy Chamomile tea and use the contents of the tea bags for your soap to see if you like it rather than buying a larger quantity.

Crushed or Powdered Calendula - The crushed petals help to add lather to soap. Calendula adds a slightly darker yellow than Chamomile. It is inexpensive and available through craft stores and most soap suppliers.

Crushed or Powdered Hibiscus Petals - Inexpensive and adds a lovely baby blue quite readily but, in my experience, not suitable for soaps that will not be used quickly unless you don't mind the added color to fading to gray within a couple of months. This effect should also be kept in mind if you are using colorant as it may interfere with your desired color.